My Sabbatical

Sorry about the absence as of late. Life got crazy, as it often does, something had to give and this was it. I have some new ideas as to how to better manage this blog and I will be trying them out this week. I'll see if it helps. Thanks for your patience. I appreciate it. Happy Gardening!

Ciao!

Divide and Conquer

I thought I would address a question my friend Ingrid posed to me. She asked about the right time to divide her shasta daisies. So lets talk division.

For those of you who aren't familiar with the phrase "divide your perennials" let me say it is just what it sounds like. When perennials get to packed into one place or grow past their prime they need to be divided into smaller, individual plants. For those of you who already knew that but have never actually done it, let me put you at ease. It is a pretty simple process that doesn't take a great deal of time or special tools. It is beneficial, even necessary, to your plants and as a bonus it will stretch your dollar by giving you plants to swap or replant in your own garden. As a general rule, I didn't divide my perennials every year. Probably this was laziness on my part, but I felt like every other season was adequate.
If you look at Ingrid's daisy foliage, you can see how large the clump is and how compact it has become. When I asked her about the last time she divided them, she told me it had never been divided and this is possibly its third season of growth. Now is a great time for her to make the division and replant so the roots will have plenty of time to grow before producing flowers. Different plants use different techniques in their division. Rather than posting an enormous entry, I'll refer you to an article I liked from Fine Gardening, a magazine/website I trust. There is also a fantastic video to watch that gives you more specific information. (Don't be alarmed by the crazy outfit the woman is sporting. She knows her stuff, so listen up.) I have divided my own perennials at various times in the year, the most common time for me being spring. I know some gardeners who swear by fall dividing, but I think the reason I divide in the spring is this: I simply have more energy and gusto for getting out in the sun and working than I do in the fall. If you read the accompanying article and watch the video, and still have questions, let me know what they are and I will address them.

As a side note, I was remembering how much I moved my plants in UT. I treated them like furniture. If I didn't like where they were, or if they didn't like where they were or they were getting too big for their space, I would dig them up and move them to a better spot. Point is... don't be afraid to move your plants. You don't want to do this in the heat of the summer - mind you, but most plants are pretty resilient and will take being moved with little problems. Just like people, give 'em a little love and they'll respond.

Ciao!

Go to Seed

More than once I have been asked about the expiration date on the back of seed packets and what it really means.

In the seed industry there is a six-month standard for germination testing. What that date on the back of your packet actually tells you is when that batch of seeds was last tested. For example, in the photo below it says 12/08. This means those seeds were tested for germination in 6/08 and had a high enough rate of germination to continue selling them. I believe this percentage must be somewhere around 94% rate. There are discount seed companies that offer seeds at a lower price, but generally the trade-off is a lower rate of successful germination - around 55-65%. Keep that in mind.

What I believe to be the most important factor in seed success is how they are stored. Seeds should be kept dry and cool. This could be in the fridge or a basement. They must be kept dry or they will rot. I have stored my seeds in their original paper packets, small metal containers and baggies. As long as they are cool and dry, they should be okay. In these conditions most will last well beyond their expiration dates. In general, vegetable seeds last longer than flower seeds. Below is a general guideline to follow, but loosely.

General viability guidelines:
beans - 3 years
beets - 2 years
carrots - 3 years
corn - 2 years
cucumbers - 5 years
lettuce - 3 years
peas - 3 years
peppers - 2 years
pumpkins - 4 years
radishes - 5 years
spinach - 5 years
tomato - 4 years
watermelon - 4 years

Remember these are just guidelines and if you take the time to store your seeds correctly you can expect a much longer length of time. I have used seeds with pretty old dates on them and they have still done well.

There are a few exceptions to this rule. Delphiniums seeds have a very low rate of success after one year. Also parsley should be planted according to the expiration date for best results.

 
If you're unsure, you can test your seeds. Simply space several out on a few layers of moist paper towels, roll up so that the seeds don't touch, and enclose the bundle in plastic wrap so it doesn't dry out. Place in a warm bright location (65 to 70 degrees is fine) but away from direct sun. Check the seeds every couple of days. If they haven't germinated — or only a few have sprouted — in a couple of weeks, chances are they're no good. If you prefer just throwing caution to the winds and not testing the seeds, be sure to sow more heavily to make up for lower germination rates.

Have fun planting!

Ciao!